What it is
VCT and similar resilient tiles are protected by layers of floor finish, which most people call wax. Over time those layers get scratched, dirty and yellow, and sometimes peel in spots. Mopping and burnishing can only do so much. At some point the right answer is to take it all off and start over. That's a strip and wax.
How I do it
- Prep. Furniture moved, edges and baseboards protected, wet-floor signs up.
- Strip. Stripping solution goes down and sits long enough to break down the old finish. Then I scrub it with the machine and do the edges by hand, which is where most rushed jobs fall short.
- Pick up and rinse. The slurry gets wet-vacuumed and the floor gets rinsed, more than once if needed.
- Neutralize. Stripper leaves the floor alkaline. If you skip neutralizing, the new finish doesn't bond well and can haze or peel. This is the step people skip most.
- Finish coats. Several thin coats of commercial floor finish, with each one dry before the next. Thin coats dry harder and look better than a few thick ones.
- Cure and burnish. After it cures, a high-speed burnish if the finish calls for it.
I go into more detail in what strip and wax actually involves.
How often
Most commercial floors do well with a full strip once or twice a year, with burnishing or a scrub-and-recoat in between. A busy clinic hallway is different from a quiet back office, so I'll suggest a schedule after I see your traffic.
Who I do this for
Offices, retail, medical offices, schools and churches, gyms, break rooms, and janitorial companies that need a floor sub.
Frequently asked questions
How long does a strip and wax take?
It depends on square footage, edges and how many coats you want. Most jobs are done overnight or over a weekend.
Can you strip and wax LVT or luxury vinyl plank?
Most LVT isn't meant to be stripped and waxed the way VCT is. Check the manufacturer's care guide, and I'll tell you what's appropriate.